Repair, diagnostic and general information

International Waterpump install on 97 From Kcovey on www.thedieselstop.com

 First of all, most of the info for this mod came from others on this board. I just did the install by grinding off the threaded boss with no idler pulley and collected lots of part#'s from previous posts. I have tried to condense alot of information into a single post that may work for anyone wanting to do this mod. My truck has 200k and had the stock '97 water pump that just started to seep. I had collected all the parts already. I did the oil cooler o-rings at the same time. This works good because of your truck is old enough for a new water pump then the o-rings probably need replaced too and you already have the coolant drained and some stuff out of the way. My o-rings were hard as a rock and cracked off of the tube when I removed it. The number that was posted for the new bolts were dead on. I measured every hole with stock pump and bolts and new pump and bolts and the thread sticking through was exactly the same length. The pump is a straight foward bolt on once you grind the idler boss off. This left good clearance for the serp. belt. The hoses going down to the cast neck worked fine. I added a 1/2" NPT 45 degree to the heater hose nipple for better clearance. A 3/4 NPT 45 degree for the degas 1" line might be a good thing too. It runs pretty close to the belt. Stock pulley bolts worked great. I pressed in 3 new idler bearing while I had that thing off. Had to weld nuts to the idler bolts (all three) to get them loose . My oil cooler would not come off in one piece. The front header would not clear. I bolted it back up and pulled the tube out of the front header and then it came right off. I had to build a press type tool to install the tube with the front header bolted on the engine and the rear header already pressed on the tube. This worked great, just took alot of time to design the tool. I did not want to hammer on the assembley and stress the weak looking front cover that the front header is bolted to. The oil cooler took alot longer than the water pump change which turned out to be fairly easy.

Here are the part numbers for the job. I gathered as many thermostat #'s as I could because there has been alot of confusion on the long/short thermostat issue. The International pump has the Short BTW. - Thermostats:'94.5-'95 & International pumps: Short '97 & up : Long -1822815C1 (long) ?F my oem '97 -1824426C92 (long) ?F new # for '97 Ford pump -1823417C92 192*F (short) International -1823648C91 195* (short) identical to Ford thermostat -Stant# 14252 (short) replacement for 195 degree and is really a 203 (or 205F) degree thermostat. -Standard Thomson #371-203 (short) 203F at Napa -Murray 4252, 14252 (short) 205F 's, look at the second number. -Thermostat gasket: Ford Part #F4TZ-8255-A NAPA Part #1106 ($1.00) 1821880C2 International $1.66 -Thicker water neck: Murray 85001 at O'Reilly's - 1831676C92 International water pump w/filter - 1817958C1 30mm bolts - 1817811C1 60mm bolts - 1818693C1 110mm bolts - WF2071 Fleetguard coolant filter w/ 4 units SCA - upper radiator hose NAPA 8825 lower radiator hose NAPA 8763 (use this for Int. water pump w/filter) - oil cooler o-rings 1807563C1 & 1804414C1 (need 2 of each) _ oil cooler header/ front gasket F7TZ-6A636-AAA rear gasket F4TZ-6A636-A - oil filter adapter casting F81Z-6881-BA ('97 & up you already have a snap ring) - 3/4NPT x 1" male hose barb Dixon 10016-112 - "Engine Temp" red light switch Ford # F4TZ-10884-B Borg Warner WT667 much cheaper